My buddies needed a septic system that pumps uphill. Their home is at the low point on the plot and for years the septic system has not worked well. They needed to fix it so they can have toilets that actually flush in the rain. An unusually wet Spring season has highlighted the issue so that they made a decision to spend the sizable amount of money to correct the situation.
The device contains the normal septic tank then a septic effluent pump tank and after that a distribution tank located in the top in the hill. The new septic tank had to be placed so as never to disturb the old tank in order that the existing system could certainly be used during construction. The pump tank needed to be located slightly underneath the septic tank in order that gravity would flow the waste water with it. The septic tank effluent pump sits within the pump tank and pumps this type of water for the distribution tank high on the hill. After that, water will drain to the field lines by gravity.
My job was to connect the sump pump and alarm to the electrical supply. The alarm is needed through the local sewer codes to make a visual and audible alarm should the water level inside the pump tank exceed a certain level. This provides an early warning there is a thing wrong using the sewer pump.
For reliability, the alarm has to have their own separate circuit. In the event the alarm was powered from the supply for the pump and also the breaker tripped towards the pump, there will be no alarm. I installed the alarm inside the house so that it can easily be seen and heard as suggested by the local plumbing inspector. I connected the wires right to the alarm panel and ran them all inside conduit to ensure that it could be tamper resistant.
This house had an exterior breaker box originally installed for that AC addition. This box had a few extra spaces within it that made a perfect location to pull power for that new septic pump system. I used a 20 AMP GFI breaker for the sump pump service as well as a 15 AMP standard breaker for that alarm. Their local ACE hardware had the right breakers for this particular older Square D box.
By far the most labor intensive portion of the job was running the underground wires from your box at the front of the home for the septic field behind the house. Much of the trench had to be dug by hand due to close proximity of the AC compressor, flower beds as well as a sidewalk. A lot of the trench was dug from the plumping contractor using his backhoe.
A 12 gage wire was run for that pump along with a 14 gage wire for that alarm. The wire used was rated for direct burial so conduit had not been needed. I have done run conduit for additional defense against the box down to the base of the 24 inch qiggkp trench at each end from the wire. I used exactly the same 14 gage direct burial wire to increase the float wiring from the alarm unit for the field.
In the pump tank, I installed a weather proof single 20 AMP outlet on the 4×4 post. Here is where the Myers Sewer pump is connected. The plug provides the required local disconnect since the breaker will not be within sight in the pump tank. The float wiring was placed in a separate junction box on the same post.
A piece of conduit was cut to match to the neck from the tank in order that the cord for the septic pump and the alarm float wiring would be protected. The conduit ends slightly beneath the outlet for your septic pump.
Our local inspector was pleased with the details and water proofing. I used a compression fitting at the bottom of every conduit run and sealed it with silicone as well to stop critters from finding their distance to the junction boxes.
I tied a duration of rope towards the sump pump, fastened the alarm float towards the outlet pipe and carefully lowered the sewer pump in place. I secured the free end of the rope to one of many lifting lugs in the sewer pump tank. The plumbing contractor can finish his work to obtain their system operational. I am certain they will likely enjoy having the capacity to take baths and flush the toilet even when it rains.